Tsung-Hsiang Hsueh

My printer runs klipper firmware. How do I connect it to my Palette 3 Pro?

Is there an official method for upgrading Octopi to 0.18? I keep receiving a notification from OctoPi saying that I need...

My palette 2s pro keeps asking if I want to stop print. I respond No, but the question keeps popping every few minutes....

Hello, I am encountering an issue where two of my recent projects are stuck in “preparing to slice - 0%” I have tried to...

The assembly manual says to insert the rods into the triangular bases and press firmly, but the rods are thinner than the...

What splice numbers should I use for ASA to ASA splicing? Should it be the same as ABS to ABS?

Why does Canvas keep generating the transition tower outside the bed area?

I have encountered a strange issue with my Palette 2S Pro. Filament will not load on any inputs. It will attempt to pull...

I know my question may sound odd, but I find that having the Palette connected to my printer I do not need to swap...

At the very beginning of a print on Canvas Hub using a gcode that was generated by Canvas, I see this in the terminal:...

Hi, I have the same problem. My Hub has been connected successfully for a long time and now it disappeared from canvas3d.io

Thanks everyone for sharing your solutions! But one question I would have is why does the third step of “Step 5 Assembling the Spool Holder” state “Firmly press the ends together“ if there is no pressure on the rods? Maybe it is something that should be improved in the design for the future? Or is there any reason for leaving it loose like this?

Hi @alina , yes, I had also looked underneath that. There were no filament pieces. However, I did find a solution. Apparently when this happens, the cutting wheel may end up at the wrong angle. And it seems Palette does not automatically repositions the wheel. Then whenever I am loading a new filament, it will get blocked by the cutting wheel because the opening on the wheel is not lined up. Therefore, what I did was to manually turn the wheel to the initial position. And now, it works fine again.

I see, I did not see any way to add brim to the tower. But what I usually do is slow down the tower speed. That reduces the ABS warping.

I do not know if such an option exists, although I have not seen one. However, brim are usually for improving adhesion with objects do not enough flat base. Transition towers have a large flat base by nature. Are you encountering any adhesion issues with the tower? If so, I think the bed leveling would be off, otherwise even your print would have adhesion issues.

Hi @alina , I am starting to agree with @archjace here. In my most recent print test, I am trying to print a novel of the earth. It is definitely selecting the wrong filament. At first I thought maybe calibration was off, but you can see that Canvas is alternating the yellow, blue and green, creating a mess of them. The yellow is supposed to be only at the poles., while the oceans would be blue and land masses would be green. Instead it making a lot of tiny splices of blue and yellow. Here is the project link: https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/380de...

I couldn’t attach a picture to my comment, so adding it here in an answer. This is an example of filament hiding in the gap where the Bowden tube interfaces with the hotend. You can see that the orange filament was still flowing through, but some time later that black filament will find its way out and into the print. That is why I do the cold pull to clean up the hotend and reseat the Bowden tube . The segment in the picture was the result of that cleaning. update: I added a picture depicting where the filament is “hiding “

Hi, without more details on the actual print, I cannot be certain, but I think you must be experiencing color bleeding. Sometimes, there is a little left of the previous filament in the hotend and that may appear several layers later. This can happen if the inside of the hotend is not 100% smooth and/or it is not equally hot across the entire cavity. For example, if a cooling fan is blowing on one side, some filament may get stuck on that side. Eventually it may dislodge (I have seen it happen even after several days of prints) and it may happen more often when mixing filaments of different types or manufacturers which may have different melting temperature ranges. One way to reduce is to play with the advanced transition length settings. For example, going from more “recalcitrant” filaments you need longer distances to purge it completely than the other way around. Same applies for going from stronger colors to weaker colors. It takes a lot more of a light color to purge a darker color, because even a...

That would be a great function if available someday. I also end up with a lot of pieces of filament which would be perfect for some kind of DIY rainbow like filament. It would be great for the environment as well as we would keeping those pieces away from the dustbin.

I had seen this new technique called programmable filament: https://newatlas.com/3d-printing/program... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNeKJnb-... where they use a regular 3d printer to pre-print the filament with the multiple colors (including possible mixes) and then use that printed filament to print the multicolor object. I think we could do the same with the palette. If we used the same programmable filament technique, the spliced output filament without the transition tower would be exactly the same and no manual change of filament required. But in order for that to work, I would need Canvas to offer the option to include neither transition tower nor side transition. Currently, it is required to pick one. Wouldn’t that be an easy enhancement?